Which of the two Heimers - "zero master" or the "3d sensor" is the better choice?
I think one is metric and one is imperial, but since the object is to approach zero, I don't think that's important.
Which of the two Heimers - "zero master" or the "3d sensor" is the better choice?
I think one is metric and one is imperial, but since the object is to approach zero, I don't think that's important.
I believe the shafts are also different, but beyond that, inch/metric and overall size they are the same.
I purchased the Zero Master from patliam3D on Ebay. I was very happy with the service and product. That Haimer is a life saver! It has sped up my work set-ups a ton. I still use my passive probe for vise set-ups, but find myself pretty much relying on the Haimer for stock set ups. It is worth every penny to me.
I'd recommend sticking with the measurement system you use more (or plan to use more). That way, if you're off the zero mark you'll have an easier time estimating how much farther you have to go. I liked that five steps on my machine was equal to one graduation on my Haimer - it made hitting the zero mark slightly easier.
I looked at purchasing one from Ebay and then purchasing the TTS holder separate, however the price was so close that I just bought Tormach's Haimer.
I was afraid of indexing the TTS interface off the top of the Haimer and using the Haimer's built-in 3/4 shaft for fear that the R8 collet might put too much vertical pressure on the Haimer body.
I am super happy with my Tormach purchased Haimer (I also know 100% that it is a legit Haimer and not a knock off).
I just bought mine from Ebay and picked the inexpensive holder up from Tormach when I was picking up a few other items. It's a legit Haimer I am pretty happy with it's accuracy and precision. I've come across knock off indicators as part of tooling lots I have acquired at auctions and yes they do suck LOL.
Love my 3D taster. Ive learned to touch off points, center of holes quickly. I have the 3/4" shank and load directly into the R8 collet.
I was wondering the sane thing. Does either one do something differently than the other or are they basically the same thing, just different sizes?
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How can you use the Haimer for zeroing the Z axis if you put it directly into an R8 collet?
BTW, I bought mine (inch version) direct from Tormach along with their TTS holder for it. I'm so glad I bought it, its been one of the best, if not the best purchase I've made for the Tormach.
I saw on the other Haimer thread, where WOTdesigns stated that it's not a good idea to use a Haimer with a straight 3/4" shank directly in the collet to measure Z. Something about the R8 collet putting undue vertical pressure ont he haimer? Anyone understand why this might be so?
A few thoughts here:
1) As the TTS R8 collet draws into the spindle by the drawbar, it does put vertical force on the 3/4" tool shank. I have no clue how much.
2) Repeatability of the tool in the Z axis depends on a consistent mating face. The TTS design has an undercut for the R8 collet "lip" and the TTS holder actually zeroes on the face of the spindle. This is because the collet actually draws up and down as the drawbar is tightened and will never return to the exact position each time. The 3/4" Haimer will zero on the tip of the R8 collet, which may not be accurate every time (I have not tested anything before, but I assume this is part of the TTS design for a reason).
My apologies. WTOpace, not WOTdesigns! Got my wto and wot mixed up. Going senile.......
My R8 collet pulls up into the spindle, so the face of the Haimer is drawn flat against the face of the spindle with excellent repeatability. As far as force on the shank, I don't know, but the Haimer is one serious chunk of metal. Been using it over a year with no issues. Using the direct shank also eliminates one variable, being concentricity of the tool holder (although I doubt it adds up to much).
I typically draw the bar up only finger tight when using a measurement device, be it edge finder, tormach touch tool etc. I can't see that level of draw being significant - or am I wrong?
Good point, I do want to buy a power draw bar at some point.
I bought a 3D Taster from Travers tool in 2000 and have been using it ever since. The ine I have has a 3/4 shank, ane let me tell you, it makes picking up the X and Y coordinates if really and fast,
I think i paid about 450 dollars for it way back then.
You can buy GOOD PARTS or you can buy CHEAP PARTS, but you can't buy GOOD CHEAP PARTS.
Ya, I failed to mention the use of my taster 3/4" shank has been using a PDB . I think it's set for 35 ft lbs if I recall.
Note that an excentricity in the tool holder would be compensated for when you calibrate the Taster.