[Potatohead908]

I was able to make two of my own TTS holders this past week. One was from a straight 3/4" shell mill arbor, and the other was from an R8 boring head arbor. They both sucked to do on my G0602 but mainly because I really don't know what I am doing! :drowning:

For those of you who have done this what is the easiest way to make the relief on the shoulder so that the tts collet isn't interfered with?

Thank you for your input!

[pippin88]

On my spindle I don't think the relief is really necessary as the TTS collet sits pretty deep.

I'd do it in the lathe. You can grind a hss tool for face grooving. Don't need to be precise really because it's just clearance.

I'm planning to eventually make a TTS flycutter and boring head shank too.

[hoss2006]

I've made my own holders from scratch many times but for retrofitting a tool that already has 3/4" shank the Tormach conversion kit makes it easy.
32432 - TTS Tool Conversion Kit
I have a video here on how I used one recently.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...ml#post1592902
Hoss

[Potatohead908]

On my spindle I don't think the relief is really necessary as the TTS collet sits pretty deep.

I'd do it in the lathe. You can grind a hss tool for face grooving. Don't need to be precise really because it's just clearance.

I'm planning to eventually make a TTS flycutter and boring head shank too.

Pippin88, I think mine is setup the same. As long as the shaft diameter is small enough the collet will retract into the taper enough that the relief isn't needed. So I will not be doing the relief unless something else comes up and it's needed.

[Potatohead908]

I've made my own holders from scratch many times but for retrofitting a tool that already has 3/4" shank the Tormach conversion kit makes it easy.
32432 - TTS Tool Conversion Kit
I have a video here on how I used one recently.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...ml#post1592902
Hoss

Hoss,

Money is tight so I wanted to do it for free excluding my time. Motivation by you got me to use the mill as a lathe today and that was flat out COOL!!!

[Potatohead908]

So what have you guys done for boring the holes for the tools for your tool holder? I worked with what I had but nothing long and narrow enough to completely go through my 3" aluminum TTS. I made it for an LED edge finder so I figured aluminum was fine. I need to make steel ones now but not until I get the right boring bar.
Attachment 257474

[hoss2006]

I own Kennametal ones but small boring bars like these will do the trick.
5 16 x 4" RH SCLCR Indexable Boring Bar Holder CCMT New | eBay
SHARS 3 8" SCLCR Indexable Boring Bar New | eBay
Hoss

[Potatohead908]

Thanks Hoss. I was looking at those and wasn't sure if I needed to go with a solid carbide bar for the rigidity. What kind of metal would you recommend for the end mill holders? How long are the TTS holders you are making and do you bore all the way through them? Thank you.

[hoss2006]

When I made mine I used either O1 or D2 tool steel, whatever scraps I could snag at work.
O1 isn't expensive and is easier to machine than D2.
Mild steel could do if you aren't too rough with them, they ding easy.
For holes smaller than 3/8 and 1 inch deep I use these type of solid carbide boring bars.
MICROBIT
I only bored them as deep as the endmill shank length, maybe 1.25 max iirc.
Hoss

[Potatohead908]

DEEPGROOVE

This is something that I was thinking about using earlier before it became clear I didn't need it for my tts application. Neat sight. Thanks again Hoss. Your help is very much appreciated!!

[hoss2006]

Yeah I just ground one of the little carbide bar tips at an angle to do the recess bore.
Hoss

[Potatohead908]

I tried that but no go for me. The tts was from a turned down boring head with R8 shank (that sucked but it spins true!). That didn't help I think plus it was the first tool I tried to grind and am sure I didn't do it right.

[Potatohead908]

Reading that again I did not do the same as you Hoss. I ground some HSS square stock I bought.