[jb-cnc]

So, I am building a 4' x 8' machine almost entirely sourced from CNC Router Parts. I'm hoping this will be a very boring build thread because since I got all my parts I have assembled the entire machine minus the electronics box in two days. However, I'm sure I will have tuning questions and since assembling this machine, I have an overwhelming desire to share pictures of it (not yet though).

Also, I would like to share any insights that I have on the assembly process to help those who come after me.

1. So far, BUY THIS KIT! I feel like I just assembled DIY aluminum furniture. It is a very intuitive process.

2. If you forget to put a carriage bolt in place during installation and you are wishing that the 8020 was counter-bored....plunge router and some clamps. Easy.

More to come. Also, feel free to ask any questions.

[ahren]

JB,

Thanks for the endorsement. I agree, extrusion is pretty fun stuff to work with. Some pictures would be great -- there's nothing to get people more excited about a build thread than some high-res machine goodness Some tips from a builder are always appreciated as well. They help others making these kits, and help us make the kits better.

On the carriage bolts, glad you were able to figure out the counterbore thing. It's on our list to convert to drop-in hardware once we find a supplier who doesn't charge an arm and a leg for it, but it is pretty easy to create access channels if you forget.

Best regards,

Ahren
CNCRouterParts

[jb-cnc]

Here are the pics of the finished machine. I've been cutting and the machine is running beautifully. I still need to install my limit switches and wire up a z-depth finder.

[DonFrambach]

Looks great! Strongly suggest you put an E-Stop near your keyboard (if there isn't one there already).

[jb-cnc]

Yeah, that's a good call. I find that I sit there or stand at the end of the gantry. I think I'll have to put one there too.

[digitalcoleman]

Jeremy, thought I would say hello as a fellow CNCRP machine owner in the Denver area. I made the 48x48 for my garage workshop and have been running it 14 hours a day for a couple weeks on a big project that will appear in the Denver Art Museum in a couple weeks. Have enjoyed the machine quite a bit! I would love to know how you have set up your table with those slots? Also, does anyone have a good tip to make sure the gantry is square to the table. sometimes i hit the back bumpers (coz i didnt do endstops) and it gets out of square and so I have a hell of a time trying to get it back into square.

A pic:

[RossMosh]

You want to set up limit switches once everything is squared. That way the driver/computer will keep things from going out of square.

[digitalcoleman]

Can you recommend good/friendly optical endstops for these systems?

[RossMosh]

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_s...made_easy.html

[jb-cnc]

Jeremy, thought I would say hello as a fellow CNCRP machine owner in the Denver area. I made the 48x48 for my garage workshop and have been running it 14 hours a day for a couple weeks on a big project that will appear in the Denver Art Museum in a couple weeks. Have enjoyed the machine quite a bit! I would love to know how you have set up your table with those slots? Also, does anyone have a good tip to make sure the gantry is square to the table. sometimes i hit the back bumpers (coz i didnt do endstops) and it gets out of square and so I have a hell of a time trying to get it back into square.

A pic:

Hey! Looks like a nice setup you have there. I'd love to know when your project goes to the art museum. I'm glad to know there's another person with one of these local.

The slots are done with t-track from here T-Track - T-Track That's the best price I've found. I use the track with these rockler clamps Deluxe Hold-Down Clamp - Rockler Woodworking Tools I had to grind a 16" off each side of the part that goes into the track, but they work perfect now. I have 1 layer of 3/4 mdf bolted to the extrusion and then 12" sections of mdf between the aluminum track screwed down with drywall screws.

Also +1 on the hall effect limit switches. I haven't bought mine yet, but I think that's how I'll go. As long as your only cutting non-ferrous materials.

[vtx1029]

I pull my gantry to the front with the estop on and then reset the estop. Its prettly close to squre. If you drill 4 holes in a square and then measure the diagonals it will tell you how off square you are.

I made the hall switch sensors and they work great. I have not got them set up to auto square the gantry yet...

[jb-cnc]

I'm having a strange problem. When I run the machine with a predictable g-code (read smooth) everything runs to the end with no problem. When I run a g-code with a lot of jerky motions, my mach 3 gets errant e-stop signals every 5 minutes or so. Then I go to diagnostics, turn the router back on, turn the dust collector on and hit start. Sometimes this results in strange cuts on my project (read ruined). The system does not lose it's place per se, because it will continue to cut the remainder of the project accurately. Does anyone have any similar experiences?

[RossMosh]

Talk about how you are producing your files.

To me it sounds like you're taking a file, converting to an AutoCAD file, and the file has a million points when it only needs 100. As a result, the CNC gets caught up reading all the points and can't run smoothly. This happened frequently at a shop I worked at and the CNC operator had to be very careful to check all the files to make sure the arcs were made from 5 or 6 points instead of a couple hundred.

[jb-cnc]

Talk about how you are producing your files.

To me it sounds like you're taking a file, converting to an AutoCAD file, and the file has a million points when it only needs 100. As a result, the CNC gets caught up reading all the points and can't run smoothly. This happened frequently at a shop I worked at and the CNC operator had to be very careful to check all the files to make sure the arcs were made from 5 or 6 points instead of a couple hundred.

The file I just had a problem with was made with Vetric V-Carve Pro. I wrapped vectors around a very clear jpg and then produced my cut file using a 90 degree v-bit at 100 ipm. I think it may be noise. I was going to try this and see if it worked http://www.cnczone.com/forums/mach_m...ther_away.html

[jb-cnc]

Upped the debounce and I'm back in business.

[jb-cnc]

I'm starting to do some 3d stuff and I have a few questions.

1. I broke the small rubber band on my anti-backlash nut a while back. I haven't noticed any issues. Thoughts?

2. The Z speed seems to be the factor that slows 3d down. What speed do you guys think I can set my Z to safely? Example - Pine x and y 400ipm z ?

3. Would upping the motor size on my Z (I currently have a nema 23) and buying the better backlash nut be beneficial?

4. Should I lube That backlash nut? With what?

5. Sometimes there is a dancing white bear or marshmallow or ghost with legs on here. :wee: Do you think he/she/it gets dizzy?

Thanks,

[alan_3301]

1. mine broke too. I replaced it with a plastic zip-tie. It still has some backlash though.
2. I have mine set for 600ipm and 50in/s^2 acceleration. Even then it seems a little slow on 3d work. Going through a million short lines just takes time though. g64 p0.01 may help it will keep the speed up as best as it can while staying 10 thou close to the programmed path.
3. motor, maybe. anti-backlash nut would definitely help me
4. I never have. maybe a little wd40 once a year.