[johndjmix]

I need to cut some polyetheline for a part I make. Today (after rushing and messing up $25 in polyetheline) i decided I should setup my table so i can attach a router to cut plastic. Problem is i want it to be fast and easy to swap over between plasma and router.

Then It came to me. Use a T-Rail setup with quick-release cam type fastners....this way it will be tight and sure not to move. I will mount some short T-rail to the Z plate then make mounts for the router and plasma that will have quick change cam type fastners to slide in and tighten.

Here is the rail/fastner im thinking of using...

Cam Clamps - Rockler Woodworking Tools

--John

[xalky]

That link doesn't work for me. I'd like to check it out, because I'm thinking about doing the same thing. I'd like to do some routing on wood and plastic on my machine and a quick change setup would sure make it a lot quicker to go from one to the other.

[xalky]

Did a google search and found them. I like it. What are you using for your z axis. I'm thinking about a way to locate the mount perfectly everytime without too much fuss. Maybe 2-3 dowel pins strategically paced so that the mount is located perfectly every time. So setup time is quick and easy, and once setup you could jump from one setup to the other in a few minutes by changing the mount and switching profiles in Mach...no fussing with zeros and such.

[johndjmix]

It works for me, but if it doesnt work for you just go to Woodworking Tools Supplies Hardware Plans Finishing - Rockler.com and search for "cam clamps". its the first result.

I got the $100 rigid palm router today (Got this one since its super light and seems like it will be easy to mount) , and thanks to a nice woman at home depot got it for $30 off!

--John

[johndjmix]

The dowl idea should do it man. I got the idea from the quick release bicycle wheel cam nut things. I was thinking i could just use regular nuts or wing nuts, but they might still allow a tiny bit of movement...with those cam fastners you get that tightness at the end by clamping it down.....

Im using the shopdroids Z....but im going to re-cut the plate out of 1/4" for more strength.

Zeros on the Z mean nothing with the plasma since "zero" is set where it hits the material, but for the router i take it zero is going to be important.....so dowels defiantly....

--John

[johndjmix]

Trying to come up with an idea to be able to lock the TNG plate in place when im using the router. Hummmmmmmmm. A simple bolt through would do it, but since its spaced about .25" from the rail there would be some play. hummm.

--John

[lukewarm]

Not 100% on what a TNG is? Touch-N-Go? If so I that's just just a floating plate, why not remove it and mount directly to the Z tool plate?

[lukewarm]

Here is my version of a quick change setup. Very easy to mill with a small dovetail cutter we bought off ebay. A bolt through the back locks it into place.

[johndjmix]

lukewarm: yes TNG is the touch-n-go. Well, i thought of removing the plate, but the platehas bearings that must be tensioned against the V rail that makes up the Z. Having to re-tenion the bearings every time you remove the plate would be a pain in the butt!

What i wound up doing is making a new Z plate out of 1/4 to replace the 1/8 one that came with tulsa's kit. I then made 4 #8 threaded holes in the bottom. I can make a mount for anything i want and attach using these holes. I acutally cut the borrom off tulas's origonal Z since it allready has my torch mount on it and drilled 4 holes, so it attaches.

If anyone does this, one thing....thread the holes on your mounts, NOT the Z plate. Screwing in from the back would be MUCH easier than the front. Im going to switch mine over to this soon.

--John

[lukewarm]

John I fully understand screwing in from the back, that was a problem I dealt with on an earlier machine. Can you redrill your holes to a larger size and switch the threads to the mounts?

[lukewarm]

Uhhh, seems I didn't read the last line of your post. Whoops.