[AUSTINMACHINING]

Hi all,

I was reading documentation on the TTS tooling system in regards to facing the spindle nose to accept the TTS collet. The manual says to use a lathe tool mounted in a vise. I've never used a lathe so, I'm looking for direction on what kind of cutting tool to use (if I need to).

Thanks in advance.

-Matt

[SCzEngrgGroup]

You should not have to do that, unless your spindle has been damaged.

Regards,
Ray L.

[LeeWay]

It all depends on what kind of spindle you have.
Mine was off an X2 mill and it certainly benefited from turning it. TTS was tight and difficult to remove. I turned the spindle nose and then they would just drop out like they are intended to do. I'd say if it's a Chinese mill spindle like mine was, do it. Without question. That is uness your tools currently just drop out by gravity when the drawbar is loosened.

Just get a cheap brazed carbide turning tool.
See here.
$3.89
This is the part number
3367A331

at McMaster Carr.

[LeeWay]

Forum is acting up. It posted. I edited. It disappeared. Then back again, but twice.

I just noticed this was the Novakon area. I don't expect to have to do this with my new Torus, but if it doesn't release by gravity, it will get done as well.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

It all depends on what kind of spindle you have.
Mine was off an X2 mill and it certainly benefited from turning it. TTS was tight and difficult to remove. I turned the spindle nose and then they would just drop out like they are intended to do. I'd say if it's a Chinese mill spindle like mine was, do it. Without question. That is uness your tools currently just drop out by gravity when the drawbar is loosened.

Just get a cheap brazed carbide turning tool.
See here.
$3.89
This is the part number
3367A331

at McMaster Carr.

Finishing the spindle nose has nothing at all to do with how easily the tool comes out - it has to do with how repeatable the Z position will be, and achieving minimal runout at the tool. I would not recommend trying to "fix" the spindle unless you have first proven that there is actually a problem. This is trivial to determine using an indicator on the spindle nose - if, when you turn the spindle the indicator reading is steady, then the spindle is fine. And, with TTS, it is actually preferable to have enough "spring" in the collet that the tool does NOT simply fall out under it's own weight. Having a little "grip" there makes changing tools more difficult, since you generally need one hand on the drawbar wrench, and one on the spindle or spindle lock. If the tool can simply fall out, you stand a good chance of dropping the tool while your hands are full with wrenches. With some "grip" there, you can loosen the drawbar, then simple pull the tool out.

Regards,
Ray L.

[LeeWay]

Ray, I do understand your point of view, but to each his own when it comes to tool changes. Obviously my X2 spindle needed truing up. Runout was part of the issue. I don't expect precision numbers anyway with TTS, but they are acceptable for what I do. I would not just go fine tuning a better quality spindle without first calibrating. The spindle nose itself has little to do with regular R-8 collets and tools. My X2 spindle tightened and released those as expected. I only had the tightness issue with the TTS. That said, I removed very little material off the nose. Maybe .001" on the high side. It worked great as per the manuals suggestion.

I use a butterfly impact wrench for my drawbar and I like the tools to drop out as cleanly as possible. This way there is little chance of injury by tugging on a tool and I can use a lower tool change position. All this is with my current 80/20 mill. I expect the new Torus will be different. I do anticipate installing a PDB on it eventually. I have to remake my drawbar about once every couple years on my 80/20 mill, so don't want to use that on the Torus.

[Frogblender]

Obviously my X2 spindle needed truing up. Runout was part of the issue.

Lee, can you tell us what you did to fix the runout?

[LeeWay]

Just like Tormach suggests. I mounted a turning tool in a vise and slowly jogged it under the spindle nose taking off very little each pass. I set it up just like I was turning it on a lathe. Cutting edge of the tool was at center line on the spindle. Then just jogged X. Identical to what you do on a lathe. Oh. Spindle was turning, of course.

[TiagoSantos]

I did the exact same thing that Lee is describing on my RF-40 spindle. The spindle nose was not flat, and it was causing about 0.005-6" runout with TTS tools! As has been described here, I used a carbide tool clamped on the vise and very lightly skimmed the surface of the nose. Worked perfectly! In fact, I need to do it to my RF-45 as well, as I'm getting significant runout as well.

[AUSTINMACHINING]

Thanks for all the info. everybody,
That's the input I needed. As a believer in " If it's not broke,don't fix it", I'll measure with a dial indicator before cutting any metal.