are you running the original motor? that one had a start and run capacitor. sounds like the start capacitor has died and the motor doesn't have enough torque to get started in gear 3. if your...
Type: Posts; User: Runner4404spd
are you running the original motor? that one had a start and run capacitor. sounds like the start capacitor has died and the motor doesn't have enough torque to get started in gear 3. if your...
I may have one laying around in box unused. let me see if I can find it.
how many of these do you need? we can make a bunch, what kind of knurling do you want?
i'd switch over to a smooth stepper and modern controls for mach 3. make sure you get an ethernet breakout board
why not just add a brake to the x axis servo motor?
looking to buy a seat of onecnc mill and lathe. let me know what you have and what you're looking to get for it.
thanks
jerry
I don't want to do this job, but if its a fixture plate, you may want to consider mic 6 aluminum cast plate. it will be flat on both sides not requiring machining. and then I would add heli coils...
well a 1/2 dia hole in some tool steel should take about 1/2 hp to drill and you should be able to run at 300-350 rpm. now depending on your vfd you may or may not have full torque at the low rpm...
your gain is set too high causing too much dither
kbc tools has them.
the problem your running into is that you want .500 +0 -.002 on an 8" pc that will be tough to hold. best bet for this material is preground 303 or 304ss. that gets expensive quick. also your...
good to see you back. keep us updated on your project.
that looks like the old 10z head? I can't tell from the pics
my only criticism is that I think you need some kind of spring between the two ball nuts. the screw is not perfect and the spring will also for some play and preload, vs the static bolt you put in. ...
I don't understand why someone wants to put ultra precision ball screws on a machine that was never designed to use them and will never be able to take advantage of the increased accuracy. from my...
finance it so there is minimal out of pocket and then pay it as you use it. also look at what options you want up front and then negotiate from there. adding options later will be very expensive. ...
it looks like your losing your reference. what I would do Is drill through the part. then on the second op use an indicator and center on the drilled hole. you maybe a couple thousandths off but...
now I'm really curious what a 525 dollar part looks like that can be ran on a tormach at 25 at a time.
you don't need them. you'll never be able to push to tool hard enough with a 3 hp motor to slip the tool in the spindle, when its properly tightened.
is there a reason you didn't use commercially available pull studs? also would you be willing to share your prints of the mods since your going to the petal clamp?
have you thought about using a hardened sleeve to protect the spindle?
Nate,
I tried sending you a PM but your inbox won't receive it. also you didn't leave any contact info on your post. I am in troy Michigan and can sign your NDA. let me know
Jerry
bt30 and nmtb30 have the same taper but the bt30 uses a pull stud and not drawbar. the two are not interchangeable.
if your bidding less than $60/hr your screwing yourself and everyone else involved in the business.
about 4x8
does that meet your requirements? the travels seem really small. the base mill is about $600.00 neither of the machines you posted are really good for a conversion. I think you'd be better off...
what's your budget? I do all kinds of retrofits but don't work for free.
Call mike Costello at cncnew. great guy to deal with and services the fagor conversions.
I built my mill from the kit so I sourced the board myself. as to what they use now? I have no idea.