Mini Mods.

Like many I have made a number of mini mods to my Tormach, nothing outstanding and certainly not worthy of a separate individual post. Others may like to post any mini mods they have carried out.

Greg

Please reference text to photos.

1. Cut outs to ease refitting plexiglass to Tormach enclosure.

2. Index-able machine handle to lock joints of machine arms.
2a Remove circlip from arm pin, drill and tap for indexable machine handle. (I used 8x1.25m) Space with 14mm washers to slightly above end of pin, 8mm washer to clamp down on washer stack.

3. Small “Baking dish” tool-tray to corner of splash tray. Cheap and easy. Check for table clearance. I used 270mm x 380mm (10 3/4" x 15")

4. Gun laser sighter. Handy to check cut-path is within confines of material, and check clearance to clamps.

5. My compressor was sourced locally but appears similar to Tormach model. The water drain on mine is not located at bottom of tank! Water drain of small air compressor corrected by raising one side of machine with 4 x 2 and fitting remote drain, using barbed fitting for flex hose and air nozzle. This allows for regular draining of water.

6. Index-able machine handle to mount side shields to Tormach enclosure.

7. ½” shank ER25 chuck mounted in ½” set screw TTS makes great marking pen-holder. Gravity provides spring.

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Thanks for posting some nifty ideas!
Your air compressor drain hose and valve is Great idea! For some reason that never occurred to me to install a hose and valve on the drain!
That little mod will make that end of day job faster and easy on the back. Will do this today in fact!
Never know when you come across a little thing that helps so much "what can I say I don't like doing this :)"

Thanks again
md

These types of posts are great. They let you fix things you didn't know needed fixin'! Great ideas.

Some great ideas! I hope that others will post their own gems.

One spoiler though: I don't know about your compressor but many use splash lubrication in the crankcase and putting things on an angle may prevent proper distribution of oil.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kstrauss

Some great ideas! I hope that others will post their own gems.

One spoiler though: I don't know about your compressor but many use splash lubrication in the crankcase and putting things on an angle may prevent proper distribution of oil.

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Thanks for your concern, the compressor is what is described as “oil-less” Plastic/Teflon type piston and a ball race for the big end bearing. I have been using it tilted for about 18 months with no problems so far.
The compressor is fine for running the PDB but marginal for clearing chips. The humidity in Sydney, particularly in summer months is quite high, it would surprise you as to how much water you drain from such a little compressor. Of course the tanks are made from what they describe as corrosion free “Aircraft grade aluminium” having worked as an aircraft mechanic for 41 years I assure you aluminium does indeed corrode. Aircraft grade aluminium, pure hyperbole by non-technical people. Might have been better to put the drain at the very bottom of the tank where it belongs, and used submarine grade aluminium.
I have a larger compressor in my main workshop with the same easy drain setup and it’s not uncommon to drain ½ cup water each time I start it.
Lot to be said for an automatic functioning drain.

Greg

Has anyone tried the inexpensive timed drain valves such as eBay 390848866632?

I have a auto drain on my tank.. I think I got it from northern tool.

I put a brass drain set up on my compressor.

I have a 3.5 HP Kaeser Screw Compressor on a 60 gallon tank. I put a 1/4 inch brass elbow in the bottom of the tank and from there I ran a brass pipe out to the side of the tank where I put another brass elbow pointing straight up. In that brass elbow, I put a disconnect for an air line. Now, I can just plug in an airline and let the pressure in the tank push any water out.

This time of year, sometimes I'll get 2 gallons of water a week.

I'll squirt the water into a 3 gallon jug, then set it outside to evaporate. You wouldn't believe how rusty the water coming out of the compressor is.

This was great idea and I did it just minutes after seeing it.
I installed a quick valve and flex line to a gal jug.
Now its easy to drain and contain the nasty stuff in the jug!
No more floor pan and nasty water to deal with or mess on floor. "even if it is a shed floor".
md

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kstrauss

Has anyone tried the inexpensive timed drain valves such as eBay 390848866632?

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I use a very similar model - perhaps just the earlier version. I'm very happy with it. My compressor is stuck in a corner and the drain valve is very difficult to access. I'm also sure I'd forget to drain it for extended periods, so this was the perfect solution for me.
I set it to turn on just for about 1-2 seconds once an hour.
I adjusted the ball valve on the compressor to set the flow rate and I have about 18" of 1/4 tube between the ball valve on the compressor and the auto valve. The problem is that the air in this tube sits at high pressure waiting for the auto valve to open (in my case between 175 and 200 psi). The valve opens and this small amount of air BLASTS out and throws water everywhere. A second ball valve immediately after the auto valve keeps this nicely under control.
Step

I've been running a hose on my Air Compressor drain for a few years, allows me to shoot the water into a milk jug. I only did it because I can't really make a big mess in my garage. I also put of the splash shield on the side where the monitor and keyboard are. I've done alot of mods come to think of it, probably see them in my YouTube vids I guess.

I will add that 1 simple thing improved accuracy of my vise setups.
One magnet on each parallel to hold on face of jaws!
Keeps them well seated and clean, they don't tip or roll when your moving , tapping down and clamping stock.
I see kurt makes spreaders that hold em. "big bulky"
The little magnets work great and don't get in way for me.

And of course if you use step jaws this is not required.
Simple stuff like this makes huge difference for me anyway.
md

That's a good idea, never thought of that. You better get them made and sold before one of the big boys does it.

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The first pic is a bib that keeps the chips on the table, I usually do small parts and this saves cleanup time.

The second is a switch box machined from aluminum to replace the telephone type switch for the power drawbar release, I used a latching switch, makes it a bit easier for me to change tools, I did install a power drawbar mod that keeps the PDB locked out if the spindle is started while the PDB in the open/activated position.

Mike,

Nice PDB switch mod.

Don Clement

I like the switch mod also!
My switch is showing wear big time.
I purchased a foot pedal in hopes of using it with button to lock pdb open when doing tool changes "no joy that didn't work"
I have limited dexterity in hands and hoped this would help.
Your design looks more robust and handicap accessible :) might have to do this mod soon!
md

My switch also has wear. Scotch tape over the worn button and the foot switch helped. Mike's latching switch mod with spindle lockout is the best fix, even better than the foot switch.

Don Clement

Thanks fellows for the compliments!
My switch had seen better days also. To use a latching switch you need a lockout for the PDB though.

I put in two switches, I think the one will be just a spare, the original had two switches, so I made it like the original.

The switches are nothing special, it was what Gateway Electronics had on the shelf.