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Hi Mac,

The build went well yes, it's being put to work regularly milling everything from PCBs to plywood, to Delrin through to aluminium.
Some recent work you can see on my blog site Uber Deck...

Hi,

I recently acquired a PC Turn 55 Lathe and PC including the control card and have been slowly getting it back to working condition. Spent a few days repairing the PC and got it up and running...

Bold, maybe, but over 150mm (largest size I can measure accurately) cuts are within this 0.04mm consistently so far, yes I know how to use a micrometer/calliper and no it didn't slip a digit :). My...

So after a lot of Work to fine tune my pc if finally cut my first accurate square pocket today, a ten mm target square hole was 9.99mm in the Y and 9.98mm in the X

The problems I had lay in a few...

Hi mac,

The moving knot pulley system was removed for the last few tests and the issue remained so it isn't this, I'm pretty sure something is interrupting in software. I don't think mach is at...

So, as mac predicted I think the source of my issues lay elsewhere.

Today I spent around nine hours stripping rebuilding and checking every aspect of the machine, I managed to find a problematic...

Hi mac, il try as you suggest, thanks for that. I did check the y pulley and it is fine although I'm not keen on those as they are aluminium and appear to be cast, they certainly are lightweight so...

Thanks mac, my thought train is alongside yours, il be ordering myself some marine grade plywood to build up the build area for aluminium work, il likely make a frame similar in structure to the...

Hi, thanks mac for the advice, after much trial and error today I was able to track the error, definitely deflection of the z axis and bit in the y direction.

I performed test cuts in wood using...

Cutting!

So i'm very glad to report that the momus is cutting, rather than waste time I jumped straight in today and milled a spoilboard and attached some 3mm aluminium plate and performed some...

Hey mac,

Thanks for the kind comments, I'm assuming a watchmakers machine is pretty accurate so I'm happy with that so the last thing I'm going to do is try to tram the spindle and that's it for...

The cable carriers that I mentioned previously with 3d printed bearing carriers of my own design are so far working out fine, I may replace them in future but for now they will certainly do the job...

So, the project cnc has been on hold for a while as I built the space to house it, over the past few days I have been back at the unit in hope of getting it cutting this week or so.

I built...

Not sure, they're showing up fine from here

When I ordered the metal from the UK I omitted the cable carrier parts, the reason being that I have extended the dimensions of the unit and therefore wasn't at that stage sure of the dimensions and...

Following the adjustment of the rails I went ahead and fixed the Y axis and performed the same levelling procedure, again I made a jig for my dial indicator and set it up as best I could.

When...

some pics

So, its been a long time since I have updated the build, things have been hectic, I have been flat out building 3D printers and have recently became a father for the second time, not much free time. ...

Hey, cgodwin,

Thanks for the info there. I think there's some differences for sure. I found some info on mycncuk forum which suggests my solution is working for others with the same breakout board...

Right so a bit of an update:

I have the machine painted and it's looking well, pics to follow, I have also sourced some low viscocity epoxy for the base which is yet to be applied as the outside...

Ah nice, thanks for that

Thanks for the info on hardness. I suppose my take is that as long as it provides a flat area to measure from I'm not to concerned with durability. As you say there will be a spoil board on top of it...

I'm coming to the end of my build of a version 2. My total is coming in at around £1100 uk. Metals and fasteners cost quite a bit more here than in the us, plus most things are ordered online which...

Ok, thanks for that il keep it in mind.

I've been looking at maybe using casting resin, polyurethane. Apparently it is low vis and hardness rating is high, not sure how it would compare to epoxy...

OK, so here is an update of last weekends work. Still some work to do to create some needed clearance between the middle kress mount that I made by hand and the acme (trapezoidal) lead screw to drive...

Ah, so simple...thanks Chris il try that

Thanks a lot, im pretty happy with it but the only concern is how parallel it is to the back plate, I can't get the callipers in to measure either, know of any tricks?

Hey,

So I've been flat out with the hacksaw and file making the Kress mount for my extended V.2 Momus. Here are some images of the final result. With my rudimentary measuring tools it seems to be...

Thinking ahead to the base, what would your thoughts be on using casting resin instead of the low viscosity epoxy. In particular I've been looking at EasyFlo 95 By Polytek. It's generally used for...

Sure thing,

I found forward metals to be great to deal with, rapid as well. Nice to hear the z design should be strong enough, I have actually have gotten some of it built but am awaiting some...