I watched more videos about the D-tube and read more of your build in the thread referenced above. I may just have to give the D-tube a shot in my next build - thanks to your build and testimony!
Type: Posts; User: difalkner
I watched more videos about the D-tube and read more of your build in the thread referenced above. I may just have to give the D-tube a shot in my next build - thanks to your build and testimony!
Finally had an opportunity to watch these two videos - good stuff! I have yet to draw a neck profile in Fusion but plan to soon. How much heavier is the D tube than a regular truss rod?
Oh, a...
Great looking guitar! Looks like you fashioned yours after McPherson. How's it sound?
The neck on mine is fully bolt-on as is the fingerboard extension. Yes, the neck is adjustable via truss...
I'm finally back out in the shop after a two-month absence due to prostate surgery. Light duty work only but I'll take it!
Cut, fitted, and glued the Bubinga soundhole bracing -
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Good points, for sure! I actually thought I was keeping it clean but clearly I did not. I have some of the router mat material so I might begin using that. Thanks!
Is it just me or does the simulation go in the opposite direction of the machine (or vice versa)? Looks smooth.
That sounds like a good use for a RAS but what if you want blind fret slots? Unless you get really fancy with the RAS you're only going to get through slots for your frets, unless I'm missing...
The simulation looks correct. Which post processor are you using? Also, is one part suppose to fit into another? It looks like they will but I'm just curious about the different designs of each...
Can you export your F360 file and upload it here? The f3d file may have to be zipped to upload it.
Machine flex? Got any photos of your machine? I surface my 2x4 machine with a 1.5" bit; sems like 10mm is too small for surfacing. Is your bit upcut or downcut? What are your feeds and speeds?
One more for today, and this one is a video I had not planned to make but it became necessary when I turned the lights out (glare angle) and saw how badly the top was dented. If you've ever steamed...
Today was a busy day on the guitar even though it doesn't appear much has changed. Lots of cutting on the sides for braces and a ton of sanding to get the sides to fit the radius of the top.
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Thank you!
I took the opportunity to use the CNC for a small piece on the guitar, cutting the neck block extension to support the fingerboard and also cutting the neck block itself after it was already glued to...
Did some carving on the braces, got a new chisel, and on to the next step!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4bXqx_z-lU
Not sure that's going to happen. To get precision machining aluminum you probably need to add a zero to that $2k.
Thanks for checking it out!
On my first guitar I had just built my CNC and cut the bridge. I'll use the CNC to cut the bridge on this one, as well.
More progress on the acoustic build -
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9pLmBmWWf0
Finished the next step and began another, so here's an update -
Glued these 80 grit pieces to the 28' radius dish -
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Cut the Bubinga bridge plate and an MDF caul to hold it down for...
Made a little progress on the guitar build and got the X-brace glued, ready to sand the 28' radius on the bottom of the braces.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r9U6El9vsU
In almost every case I climb cut my roughing pass with Walnut, Maple, Cherry, Baltic Birch ply, etc. and leave about 0.005" for the finishing pass cutting conventional. I use the same bit, usually...
Finished the video for the rosette and cutting the top out. Next will be cutting and fitting braces to the underside of the top.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etrb1I6h7rs
I work with both, probably zero off the spoilboard 75% of the time. If I'm carving text or pockets then I zero off the top of the work piece. No issues getting and keeping it straight in my mind...
Easiest one of two ways - set your Z zero to the bottom of the stock rather than the top, then zero off your bed/spoilboard, or set Axial stock to Leave at a negative number; -0.002" will cut that...
Is the blade on backward or the spindle running in the wrong direction?
The rosette is completed and the top rough cut to shape (actual shape plus 3/16" all the way around). No finish yet but a little Naphtha on the rosette close-up. Not perfect but I'll take it. ...
Rosette inlay completed but not yet glued or sanded flush -
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Got started on the top today and decided on Curly Maple and Imbuya Burl for the rosette.
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Thank you!
Rosette inlay test on Honduras Mahogany. This is sort of a twisted vine that I drew and decided to use on the guitar but I wanted to test it first. The Mahogany was already cut and...
I've talked about this several times and I'm finally back to building #2! When I built my first guitar I didn't have the CNC, actually built the CNC while I was finishing that guitar so the only job...