Thats what the bolt hole through the center is for, to keep the composite under compression, and so you can compare two or more tubes with the same cutting tool.
Type: Posts; User: Eldon_Joh
Thats what the bolt hole through the center is for, to keep the composite under compression, and so you can compare two or more tubes with the same cutting tool.
In my opinion the best way to test a new material for a rigidity multiplied by dampening coefficient divided by density experiment is to make a boring bar and test against other boring bars under...
I have about 1 inch of creep across 5 feet on a 3/4" thick bar, under its own weight, most of that creep is in the last couple months when it would have been over 100F for 8 hours a day.
Also have...
Most motors have a breakdown torque at least twice rated hp at nominal rpm. And they run about 20 percent saturated.
As such, if you drive a 240vac motor at twice its nominal frequency, but at the...
granite is more like 2/3rds as stiff as aluminum if its good quality and laminated with epoxy. figure 50Gpa. aluminum is 70 gpa, steel is 200. aluminum and granite are both about the same density,...
try disconnecting the motor and connect 3, 120v lightbulbs connected in wye and see if you get medium brightness at start up and full brightness at 400hz (220volts will push 140volts across each bulb...
buy the toy machine just for the control?
if your epoxy is 1cm thick then the thermal expansion of 10C would be 4.5 microns.
my guess is tramming epoxies are filled with various fillers to prevent creep. not restrain thermal expansion....
you can't run them through a bandsaw first then cut them on the router?
i'm assuming you're talking about using a 7 inch long endmill to cut the profile of the 6" deep gluelam. so you are shaving...
I think this is a really great idea but i would save anyone the labor of shrinking the heatshrink and then trying to thread it off and cut it and put it back on.
rather i would put between the...
but seeing as you spend half your time defending Chinese spindles, why bother defending western codes?
which you normally can't be bothered to specify the code anyways?
and most everyone on...
the screw was probably pressing on the gib or it was distorting the aluminum and pushing on the gib
2.2kw at 110vac 3 phase is only 11.5 amps. 16 gauge is fine.
a vfd delivering 2.2kw from 120vac single phase (with a dumb rectifier and capacitor input filter) will draw as high as 30 amps rms...
why not just run your neutral through the phase perfect and wire up a
L21-20R plug.
if you're too lazy to add another 3 phase contactor in your machine so you can power off the spindle and servo...
you likely do not need 120vac for your computer. many are 100-260vac, they take the incoming ac and convert it to 400 volts dc.
the older computer power supplies have a switch you need to set for...
i believe that. but my comment regards my own experience of bolting a 20mm rail to about 1/8" or 3mm of system 3 mirror coat.
under a 20mm rails there are only two, about 5 or 6 mm wide contact...
i recommend just lapping the top of the X axis rails flat. epoxy a strip of steel just as wide as the rails so you don't need to remove any more metal than necessary.
to get the twist out of it,...
you can do that, but i would buy the 4.5KW spindle if you need to get 1.8nm of torque continuously.
you will need to program the vfd correctly so as to get the most torque for the least amount of...
i'm not sure its worth your time or money to attempt to drive a 100w tube from a 50 watt power supply.
did you burn out the 50 watt transformer?
if you can verify the 100 watt flyback has the same turns ratio, you may be able to change the air gap of the core so that they both have the same...
there is a chance you can fit oversize bearings into it but the oversize bearings are going to contact the nut in only the outer portions of the helix, so its going to wear out quickly, literally...
the wide flange is revealed if i'm not mistaken and needs to contact the face of the spindle nose, not the collet.
what you saw on the ebay link.. you could add a flange to that but i find it...
you have a dc brushed motor, so yes pulling air through the air gap between the rotor and the magnets is going to be 10 times more effective than simply cooling the outer casing of the motor.
with a counter weight you can use as large a motor as you want.
as for the taig being stiff enough, forget it.
replace the 2.5" square steel L frame with 100 pound box beam made from 6" or...
or use the 24v fan but epoxy a finned heat-sink onto the side of the motor.
or drill larger holes in the motor case to get more airflow through the motor, or 3-d print a better shroud to suck...
i'm not op but i'd try to balance the existing blade or replace it with an aux fan before waiting 3 weeks for a new fanblade.
doesn't make a damn bit of difference.
i had a friend of mine 3d print a fan blade for a vacuum cleaner motor, 6" diameter, probably ran at 12,000 rpm.
he reminds me of digger doug on practical machinist, always defending thermite, who got banned.
anyhow while it would be a challenge to ballance a 3d printed fan blade for maybe 3" diamter at...
are the v rails and their roller bearings arranged properly or are they subject to slop in the bearings.
and even if they are subject to slop in the bearings are the bearings doubled up and...
Just build a skid and drag it into the garage, have the rigger drop the machine on the skid. use your car to pull it, just need some folks to pickup the broom handles and lay them out in front of the...