RedSail X700 60W Laser not firing

Hello I am having some problems with my new RedSail X700 60W Laser and am hoping someone with more experience could comment.

The events leading up to the issue:

• I ordered a Redsail X700 through Ebay, it appeared to be packaged well, and it was relatively easy to set up. The control panel, air compressor, blower, and water pump (reservoir cooled) all were working as they should and the tube had no visible damage with water circulating fine within the tube.
• In the first hour of cutting, the laser tube popped/broke while in the middle of a job and I ended up shutting the machine off and standing in a puddle of water.
• Redsail determined it was "user error", as they did not believe I had water circulating in the tube for this to happen, and I was left to buy a replacement laser. I bought two for good measure.
• One of the two arrived shattered, the second appears to be in perfect condition and is currently installed in the X700 machine.

Issue:

• Though the and the machine will perform a cut "job" there is no power to the laser. Everything appears to be normal with no error messages, and all the buttons (laser power and interlock switch) are in the right position, the laser will not turn on.

• I have taken the Laser PSU apart to check for a blown capacitor and this is not the issue. Also, the fuse in the Laser PSU and on the capacitor circuit board are not blown.

Question:

• There is a Red LED in the picture below that is on the capacitor circuit board and it is near the "G1". Is this an indicator of normal or abnormal functionality? If abnormal, would this be a grounding issue? Or maybe, it is a bad Laser PSU?
• Has anyone dealt with a similar issue and have any suggestions for me?

Attachment 239086

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated as have reached the end of my troubleshooting abilities and need some fresh advice.

AJ, did you get this squared away, or do you still need some troubleshooting help. If so, I can refer you to some sites for troubleshooting materials. let me know if you still need help.

rinconchuck, I hope AJ is up and working and any information or direction you could provide for me would be greatly appreciated.

I have a new X700 60W w/ Chiller & motorized Z axis, I was just about to align the mirrors and lens when I discovered the laser tube won't fire when I 'pulse' it.

Everything else appears to work and all testing is being done from the Keypad console on the unit.

I am just starting to talk to 'cnccheap' (RedSail) but the time difference makes simple tests a days long process.

Anything additional that I might pursue myself would definitely help.

Centon1, I have the same problem as you, with a M500 60W red sail machine.

I've discovered the following.

If you go to Jog Settings and set the Power 1 to 100% for example, then accept and go back, and go again to the Power 1 and set it to 25% as example, you will be able to "manually Shoot" your laser hiting the "text" button in the Laser Power Source. Please be carefull when pressing this button, make sure you are away for the cathode as you will be firing the láser at 25% Power (The last set in the menú).

If you press "FIRE" button, you wont be able to see the laser when pressing the "Text" button in the main power Source. It is Kind of a Bug,

I'm pursuing REDSAIL W/OUT any response, it is like you brought the machine I don't care know.

Please write back if you find something new, I will to the same,

Regards,

Diego

Hey Diego,

So your laser fires with the TEST button on the Laser Controller/Powersupply. that is good. the P/S and Tube are good, and the laser tube is properly hooked up.

Try this: manually pressing on the microswitch just inside the main cutter door next to the front panel control, and press the PULSE button on the panel. That microswitch is the 'interlock' and it isn't screwed in very tight - at least mine wasn't.
I just had to manually slide it upwards a bit to get it to contact the main door. When you gently close the main door, you can actually hear the microswitch click, if you listen carefully.

Also, do you have the wire from the water chiller plugged into the rear panel? the machine will run jobs, but not fire the laser without that line plugged in - no-flow safety...

Hello Goolgaul Thanks for your Quick Response!

I've just tried what you said, mi internal microswitch is well fixed to the machine and it clicks propertly, I tried with the hand and nothing happens.
The Wiring from the water chiller is connected to the water protection system, and it does work (I've Presed the hose to cut the flow and it sents an alarm to the system, I think it is working)

Answering your other questions, may help me to solve the problem:

1.- I have M500 Redsail wih 60W laser tubes (I have 2 tubes and spare lenses and focus)
2.- I have conected the machine with 220v and Ground protected with a Avtek Power Peak "saver". Mine also brought the 110 v to 220 But i Don't trust that. I also changed the original cable to other bigger thinking that the thing could be a thing of amperage..
3.-The exahust fan is plugged to the machine. I may try to unplug there and plug separately. For now it is working fine. The fuse looks ok, but I have a doubt, it may be blowed, but everything is moving except the laser beam....
4.- It comunicates perfect with the host PC, i can move Z, X, Y and U Axis when conected. But I can't fire from the host PC.

Sadly I now they are in china, I've been 2 weeks awake from 2 to 4am just to talk to the seller. All i Don't see at the moment is the same willing to help to solve the problem as the willing they had to sell the machine.

I think that the problem could be as simple as a Firmware reinstallation or Interlock Switch unpropertly connected.

Thanks for your time! All the help is always welcome, What would you suggest?

PD: Sorry for my english, this is not my language... I'm Spanish Native.

Diego,

Thanks for your input to the problem. I've been trying to get this 60W X700 to 'pulse' or fire from the console keypad to align the mirrors with no success. It does fire when the the 'test' button on the power supply is depressed so the tube and probably the power supply is functioning.

When I approached 'CNCCheap' for some basic assistance they said

"We are very sorry for the trouble. For this problem, I hope you can check "white signal wire" of chiller, and it would be better to check its wires inside if you can at the sides of it, always it's the problem.
If it's OK, and still have problem, please let me know."

Well there wasn't any white wire and that wasn't it and when I went back to them they never responded and have ignored all other correspondence since. I'm presently tracing all of the safety/limit switch wiring and will try your suggestions shortly. My keypad consoles second from the left button says 'pulse' where others say 'laser' but its a small difference and I assume the operation to be the same. I knew this would be an adventure when I bought it but I would have expected some support or at least some wiring diagrams for troubleshooting or a test procedures to follow to isolate a problem. I tried contacting RedSail or hflaser but they ignore my requests also. I guess it's the Chinese way.

I'll keep reading the forum and searching the internet but as 'we' know it is frustrating.

Cheers.

Centon1,

I'm making some continuity tests to check the wiring, I have a wiring Diagram (or something like that) for the LS-240A Controler, it says where should be connected each component. For sure this is the chinese way. I hope to find a wrong wiring or someting real quick.

Today I will.
1.- Continuity test and accurate conection to the mainboard for the MainDoor interlockswitch as other forum member told me that.
2.- Continuity test for the water chiller cables and accurate conection to the minboard.

I've aligned the mirrors by pressing the test button.

If you press the fire button W/out any beam, and then you go and pres the test buttom you got a beam? if i do the same, i wont get a bean in the test button until I "Reset" the jog setings.

This is my reset:
Jog Setings:
Power 1:: 60% Enter ESC ESC
Jog Settings:
Power 1: 25% Enter ESC ESC.

if i do not press FIRE, the test buton in the power source lets me shoot the beam.

Kind of weird, I would like to reinstall the firmware, but there is no supplier to answer me. I might create other account and ask for a new machine with smart questions to see if "selling me other machine" they could answer my questions.

I'll be in touch.

Diego

Centon1 and Goolgaul,

I've solved the problem with my machine following the procedure I've described.

I've found a broken wire from the interlock key switch in the front pannel to the Laser Power Source, It wasn't easy to detect, I had to make many test with the tester (Assuring Continuity only). The broken Wire seemed to me alright at a simple looking but it was broken.

Make Sure the following things in your machine:

1.- The Main Door Interlock Switch Works by measuring its continuity Pressed and Unpressed.
2.- The Interlock switch key works by measuring its continuity On and OFF..
3.- Measure the continuity for the Cable of the water protection system from the chiller. It has only two cables. Make sure they aren't broken.
4.- Start the Chiller connect the cable (water protection system) only to the chiller and measure the continuity. It should give you continuity for the number 1 and 3 (only two Cables.).
5.- With Maindoor closed, switch On and Laser Protection System On, measure continuity from the Main interlock Switch to the laser Power System.
(There are two green wires at the bottom, 1 is alone and the other 1 is connected with the Ground) Make sure you have the continuity!

Be patient, this might be the problem, my problem was a broken wire in a conector, very hard to see, but easily detectable with the tester, make sure you test at the END of the conection of each cable.

Tanks goolgaul for your help, W/out it I couldn't have solved the problem.

Diego

Hi All

I have the same problem as above, and after reading through all the great info, i inspected my machine again, and found that one of the wires of the interlock switch has somehow disconnected. Don't know how, as the machine is has not been moved for the last 12 months at least, but not worth wasting time going into that now. The wire that is still connected is on the common pin. Should the other wire be on the NO or NC? I would think that it should be on NC, since it is now "open" while not connected?

I guess it cant do much harm to try it, as it is only an "on/off" switch?

If somebody can just confirm before i plug it in and test it it would be greatly appreciated.