Parallel Cable

Hi All
I seem to remember reading that a Printer cable will not work with mach3 and that you need a CNC cable is this true. I can't get my CNC G704 to do anything. I can't jog it, it wont run the G code, nothing I changed out the Automation Tech cable out with a printer cable. and still nothing. I went through and check all the setup config settings to make sure I didn't screw some thing up. When the controller is on all the steppers get warm from holding current. I have ohmed out all the cables ever thing is tight and good. Checked all the voltages. I have not used the machine in over 6 weeks because I had shoulder surgery. I don't have any kids at home or my wife didn't mess with ( I asked boy did that cause a flap):nono:. Where should I start looking? What should I look for first? I have been messing with it all day today try to get it to work.
Than for any help.
CH

The parallel port cable between the PC port and the controller has to be a 25 pin straight through with all pins connected . Often referred to as "extension cable DB25 m to F. Some vendors sell that type of cable as a "printer" cable.to further confuse things. A TRUE printer cable does not have all of the pins hooked up but hose types are a vanishing breed. So was this running before and you came back and it was in "stunned " mode or is it new. First thing to do is contact the vendor of the system and see if they can help. Sounds like a setup problem but hard to say without know more about the control and the software.

If it worked 6 weeks ago, why would you question the cable now?

the way i read it he was using the correct cable from automation tech, changed to a printer cable, now things don't work so yes as pointed out already what you read is true, printer cables don't work.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ger21

If it worked 6 weeks ago, why would you question the cable now?

---

I don't know just trying any thing>
CH

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by carlowens

the way i read it he was using the correct cable from automation tech, changed to a printer cable, now things don't work so yes as pointed out already what you read is true, printer cables don't work.

---

Sorry that is not what I meant. The mill will not respond and after trying just about every thing I could think of I swaped out the DB25 pin cable that came with the computer I'm using. Yes it was working in june before the shoulder rotator cuff surgery. I'm able to get back in the shop now and the mill don't work. Mach 3 DRO count when I jog it but the motors don't respond. It is like the pin number in the motor output table aren't wright but I check them and they are the way they should be. X 8&9 Port 1, Y 6&7 port 1 Z 4&5 port1, Port address is 378 non of the item to the far right of first screen are checked, I don't have any LEDs lit in the Diag screen.It's like every thing is right but the motors don't move. I have check all cables, power supply's and voltages, all ok.?????? I also just ohm'd out both cables and they are the same all pins connected.
I'm strongly thinking ESS to replace the C10 BOB and get rid of the parallel. stuff kind out dated. I have the Automation Technology Kl-5056D drivers and the 570 oz steppers and no it is not new.
CH

well if it worked before with the automation tech cable put it back on there so you know it's as it was electrically and if you changed nothing else physically and verified none of the connections have wiggled loose then it's probably software related. a reinstall of mach 3 and the drivers would be my first test.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by carlowens

the way i read it he was using the correct cable from automation tech, changed to a printer cable, now things don't work so yes as pointed out already what you read is true, printer cables don't work.

---

Sorry that is not what I meant. The mill will not respond and after trying just about every thing I could think of I swaped out the DB25 pin cable that came with the computer I'm using. Yes it was working in june before the shoulder rotator cuff surgery. I'm able to get back in the shop now and the mill don't work. Mach 3 DRO count when I jog it but the motors don't respond. It is like the pin number in the motor output table aren't wright but I check them and they are the way they should be. X 8&9 Port 1, Y 6&7 port 1 Z 4&5 port1, Port address is 378 non of the item to the far right of first screen are checked, I don't have any LEDs lit in the Diag screen.It's like every thing is right but the motors don't move. I have check all cables, power supply's and voltages, all ok.?????? I also just ohm'd out both cables and they are the same all pins connected.
I'm strongly thinking ESS to replace the C10 BOB and get rid of the parallel stuff, kind out dated. I have the Automation Technology Kl-5056D drivers and the 570 oz steppers and no it is not new.
CH

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by carlowens

well if it worked before with the automation tech cable put it back on there so you know it's as it was electrically and if you changed nothing else physically and verified none of the connections have wiggled loose then it's probably software related. a reinstall of mach 3 and the drivers would be my first test.

---

All ready done that. Today, any special way it should be done?
CH

Dang, I must be having a CRS moment I just can't figure this out. Ever thing look like it is working but the steppers just don't move.
Thanks
CH

Quote:

---

I'm strongly thinking ESS to replace the C10 BOB and get rid of the parallel. stuff kind out dated. I have the Automation Technology Kl-5056D drivers and the 570 oz steppers and no it is not new.
CH

---

The ESS does not replace the C10. It replaces the parallel port but in the end the signals "look" like parallel port signals and plug to a BoB before they go to the motors, All you are going is adding complexity. Are you sure on the pinouts? Those look backwards.from most I have seen. Take a simple DVM and pull your DB25 cable to the C10. Write down each DIR pin that is defined in your setup. Then put your meter on DC volts and measure between pin 25 (gnd and - side of the meter) to the respective pins for each axis DIR signal. Jog that axis and change the direction. The DIR signal for that axis should go from low to high (about 3.5 volts DC on most PC's or vice versa. Bottom line you are checking for activity . Low is close to zero volts (less then 1 VDC). If you get signals than good chance the MACH is sending out signals to the parallel port.
The next thing to check is your Charge Pump. Go to Ports & Pins and Output signals and find the two charge pump ouputs. Make sure the first one is enabled and note waht port 1 pin it is on. Go back to the cable using pin 25 and the pin noted for CP. When you come out of RESET that pin should go to about 1/2 of the DC volts as the normal HIGH so something like 1.5 to 2 volts. You have to have CP on most BoB to let the signals through .

I know you are frustrated but tossing out the parallel port and setting up Ethernet and the ESS is not a 5 minute deal. If you buy your new components from the wrong vendor you will be stuck where You are now....poor instructions and asking for help on a forum.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Torchhead

The ESS does not replace the C10. It replaces the parallel port but in the end the signals "look" like parallel port signals and plug to a BoB before they go to the motors, All you are going is adding complexity. Are you sure on the pinouts? Those look backwards.from most I have seen. Take a simple DVM and pull your DB25 cable to the C10. Write down each DIR pin that is defined in your setup. Then put your meter on DC volts and measure between pin 25 (gnd and - side of the meter) to the respective pins for each axis DIR signal. Jog that axis and change the direction. The DIR signal for that axis should go from low to high (about 3.5 volts DC on most PC's or vice versa. Bottom line you are checking for activity . Low is close to zero volts (less then 1 VDC). If you get signals than good chance the MACH is sending out signals to the parallel port.
The next thing to check is your Charge Pump. Go to Ports & Pins and Output signals and find the two charge pump ouputs. Make sure the first one is enabled and note waht port 1 pin it is on. Go back to the cable using pin 25 and the pin noted for CP. When you come out of RESET that pin should go to about 1/2 of the DC volts as the normal HIGH so something like 1.5 to 2 volts. You have to have CP on most BoB to let the signals through .

I know you are frustrated but tossing out the parallel port and setting up Ethernet and the ESS is not a 5 minute deal. If you buy your new components from the wrong vendor you will be stuck where You are now....poor instructions and asking for help on a forum.

---

Hey thanks for the info on the ESS route. The pins don't really mater as long as you have them entered in the right order in Config pins and ports.screen. You can have 2&3 on the X axis or 8&9 as long as the wiring matches and on the right port number. In my case I used the shortest route from the brake out board to the drivers. X just happened to closest to pins 8&9. and so on. But yes they are right. I have pulses on PUL- but nothing on PUL+DIR+ and DIR- when jogging the axis, all of them no mater which way your going+-. I don't think that is right. I wish I was better at figuring this stuff out. I'm thinking that the C10 may be hosed because I have pulses on the pins of the parallel cable for each axis when jogging either direction. If this C10 is bad then it makes 2 driver out 3 and 2 BOB cards in a little over a year.::argue: I'm getting tired of having to constantly replace Chines crap. Automation tech has been a problem getting warranty parts replaced. I had a computer crash last year during the cold. I lost all my software and asked them send me a replacement lic for my Mach3 the wanted me to buy a new lic another 175.00 but she finally talk to the boss and they sent a replacement. Then a KL-8057-D was DOA when I finished my build and they didn't want to warranty it only 4mo after I bought the kit. Then Feb. 2014 a KL-5056-D died and that was a fight to the end because it was 10 Mo old. They say they have 12mo warranty on their junk or they used to. I was on the phone today with Scott at Artsoft. today, he thinks it is in the BOB. So I 'm down for now until I get some more help on the C10. I have no idea what a charge pump is or what it does.
Thanks
CH

Hi All
I think I found the problem the DIR+ and PUL+ are note getting through the BOB to the DIR+ PUL+ which are jumped together at the Drive plug.. I have the 5vdc used for the signal but it is not there so I need to troubleshoot the C10 and follow the signal out to the drive. Stay tuned for further developments.:cool:
CH

Hi again.
I found the problem there was a bad jumper on the C10 BOB. the Jumper should be able to connect some pins together that defines the function to the pins and it was bad. So I soldered some wire between the pins and now everything is working again. Sure glad to have the G0704 back up and in the shop again. Thanks for the help.
CH

The C10 BoB is from CNC4PC (about the only thing NOT Chinese in your setup. You might get some help from this guys. Do you have any documentation on the C10.? The Charge Pump is a safety signal (From MACH) that prevents outputs (like relays or motors) from turning on during a PC boot or if MACH is not loaded. Without that signal most BoB will not let the signals go through. All it takes is for that signal to be missing and you are dead and far as motion or outputs. The C10 may or may not have CP bu tif it does it will be a specific pin that you HAVE to use in the MACH profile.
TOMcaudle
www.CandCNC.com

The c10 does not have a charge pump, it's an economy breakout board. as his competitor just pointed out it's from cnc4pc, you can get a separate c4 charge pump but unless you have relays hooked up to your c10 you can do without.

Hi All
I have the fix in, and it is working right. I don't really care where or who made the card fact is the jumpers used on it are cheap worthless parts that doubt was made in America. A bad one caused the problem and now it works.
Thank you for your input.
CH