3040T-DJ - T-D 3axis controller - burned resistor on PW3024 powerboard

Hello
I need good quality image from T-D inside 3 axis controller - YooCNC PW3024 powerboard spindle.
I need it because one of blue resistors R5 is burned .. and need resolder good one.
Without color of this resistor - I can't do anything..

Please help with foto, color of resistor or diagram

best regards
Mario

Mario,

I have the EXACT same problem. my power board shot craps today and it appears to have burned out resistor R5 for me as well.

I can send pictures, I can read about half of mine.

It seems to be

Red (or brown)
Black
(completely unknown...white or yellow maybe)
Black
Brown (or red)

Did you happen to figure it out?

Thanks so much.

Hey guys, I am looking at one of these that has been brought into my work. It has a burnt out R5 resistor and the customer has requested the 7812 regulator to be changed. I can only see the colours on each end of the resistor and they are both brown. The most likely value if you have black as the next colour on each end is 100ohms, which would be brown, black, black, black, brown (100ohm 1% tolerance).

Any info as to what was happening when the resistor died? Spindle jammed or just random?

Hi Guys, if you still need pics let me know. I just bought a 3040 with the same controller box. If you don't what was the final outcome to your respective situation. Just in case my unit takes a dump.

Thx

I need the model numbers of the stepping motors off of someone's cnc 3040. Any help appreciated. Thanks, Bo

My 3040 has the following stepper;

57HD0401-15SB
1.8, 2.0 amps, N1308

Hope this helps....

Hi Guys,

I have uploaded yesterday in a different post the electrical diagram and the layout of the YOC-PW3024 board.

I hope it could help you.

Herewith the files:

Hi Guys,

I been following this thread. I have a 3040T-DJ with the same resistor burnt. Any updates to solving this problem. Has anyone found a suitable board replacement.

Hello,
saw this thread whilst looking at board problems for my 3040 router. The resistor labeled as R5 on my board, connects to the 4 pin DIL chip (opto isolator chip) whose output socket is labelled "stop" at the top of the board. It appears to act as a current limiting resistor for the LED within the opto-isolator chip.
Measured resistance on my meter = 1 Ohm ( yes, one ohm),
and colour coding is : brown / black / black / black // brown
which should give it a value of : (brown)value= 1 / (black) value= 0 / (black) multiplier=1 / (black (tolerance-colour not listed)

my test meter was checked against other known resistors so there is no error in testing and the resistor is a one ohm resistor.
~The colour coding doesnt match the european model for (multiplier) and (tolerance) codings, but you can look that up on the net if you want.

Hope this helps you get your board back together.
For myself im awaiting : a regulator, a power transistor, the 4 pin chip (opto isolator) and the timer chip (ne555n). When (if??) it works ok after repair some king of current limiting circuit will get grafed on to prevent future failures.
best wishes from uk
Morse Toad

Hello,
I have to apologize because I made some mistakes in the previous electrical diagram. Nobody is perfect...
Herewith the udated file :
Attachment 226738
Rak

hello gent,
rakounet's last post is correct. The R5 value is 100 ohm.

(one of my test meters is in error, I rechecked the R5 value today with my other resistance meter, and r5 reads correctly at 101 ohm) So, please disregard my previous post which measured R5 at 1 ohm in error).

Hope this helps,
regards,
morse toad.

I have aphoto if it helps
It is 100 ohms colours to me if its ok to ask what type of power input are your machines and are the the same as from the wall? mine is rated at 220 volts machine but my wall is 240volts so i'm thinking i have to work out that so i dont blow a resistor either. anyway good luck guys hope you work it out. Hatchetman.

I'm not sure if this thread is closed, but there is no answer to how to fix, so I thought I would give some pointers on where to start!
I've just gone through this whole exercise and have successfully repaired the PCB.

special thanks to those that mapped out the pcb and the circuit - saved me doing it!!
With regards to the burnt R5 resistor the reason it goes up in smoke is because the two 2 watt 1ohm resistors have gone open circuit, which means the spindle is drawing all it's power through that poor little 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistor which equals smoke. replacing the resistor only will only result in more smoke.
With a multimeter check the resistance of these 2 resistors (best to check them out of circuit) they should measure open circuit if your 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistor let the magic smoke out.

Why did it do that? more than likely the spindle stalled on the job. either picking up a piece of waste and jamming or way to big of cut and stopping the spindle.
sometimes you are lucky and just the fuse will blow, but because the boards are pretty cheap there is no real protection for the components on the PCB.

there are 2 ways to fix all this. 1 is to go through each individual part in the spindle circuit and check replace test if it still doesn't work go to the next part and start again.
or 2 replace all the following bits and it will more than likely just get up and work first go, lets face it the parts are dirt cheap.

first things first, that 100 ohm resistor (R5) is a current limiter for the E stop pins ( on a 3 axis cnc this isn't connected) so forget about it. It is just a casualty of the problem.
replace the 2 1 ohm 2 watt resistors (R3 + R4)
check your fuse ! replace if blown.
if you are worried about the PWM input control you can replace the 4n25 optocoupler it is about $1.50 (make sure you fit it correctly in the board as it is the opposite orientation to the 555 timer)
Now in theory the IRF740 mosfet should be fine, but to be sure for $4.50 I just replaced it.
While your there if you are really worried (some people have found the ne555 timer faulty) you could change that too. another $2.00)

Ok it looks like I just changed everything I could see on that circuit. (And yes I did) but it cost less than $10.00 in parts, and I now know that all the parts are new.
save time and headaches.

I did diagnose the fault first. Also remember to put your PWM wires from the XYZ controller the correct way around or the gcode won't start your spindle. (manual mode will still run the spindle)
blue wire goes on the left then grey,brown,blk,wht, yellow blk and red (there are no wires on the STOP pins)

good luck I hope this helps

So forget the smokey resistor and check the R3 and R4
If both R3 and R4 are OK the IRF740 is the next to replace - after checking the fuse!!!

hi all
hmmm. seems like this controller has some form! :) i bought the same controller and machine today for next to nothing but apparently it blows fuses. Does anyone know the fuse size for F1 and F2. Any clues as to why it would blow fuses? Also R5 is definitely 100ohms.

cheers all

Hi sli21,

Both fuses are F6AL250, that means 6A 250V Fast Blow.

In what circonstances the fuses blow? All together?

Rak

hi rak
thank for the response. well i think my situation has gotten worse :)
i bought the 3040 real cheap. almost brand new but issues with the controller box. it was a service return that kept blowing fuses.
i got some new fuses,put them in and turned it on with nothing plugged in. it instantly blew a fuse and there was a small spiral of smoke from near the x-axis plug on the controller board. hmmm...i thought that cant be good!
i disconnected the power plug from the 3024 board to the controller board,replaced the fuse, turned it on again and woohoo! the spindle whirred away happily.
must be an issue woth the controller board. i looked for the smoke affetced area.there was some discolouration near some of the pins of the x-axis controller chip.

any thoughts Rak?
i think i might have to buy a new controller board. can u recommenmd a replacement?

cheers scott

hi again rak
also i forgot to mention that there is a 25ohm resistance across pins 1&3 on the x-axis stepper motor socket. all teh other motor sockets show NO continuity across these two pins.
pin1 is closet to the back of the controller box.
cheers scott

Hi Scott,

Not sure you have the same board than me. Does it look like to the attached one?

Attachment 236768

Cheers Rak

hi rak
exactly the same board. mine screws to a large heat sink underneath. i contemplated maybe a new board and doing a mod on it - what do you think of it this? Fixing a Chinese Made CNC Stepper Motor Driver Board (TB6560 chips) | Home, DIY & Stuff

cheers scott

hi again rak
i also posted this http://www.cnczone.com/forums/genera...ml#post1489044
cheers scott