Plywood cutting

hi
I have a CNC laser ST3060 Liaocheng Xinxing Electronic Co. ltd (50W) with controlled newlydraw.
The results of cutting the plywood not are satisfactory.
The cut in some parts leaves some fibers of the wood, small diaphragms which in many cases make it difficult to retrieve the cut piece.
I tried to lower the cutting speed (usually 30 mm/s, power 100, PWM 1KHz) but the results do not change.
I can not determine a common element that colleges various cases of incorrect cutting.
In a few days, and after various tests, everything starts to work (so 'usually happens;-)
You think that might be a greater presence of glue on the plywood or performance degradation of the tube?
Do you have any suggerimeto, some trick to overcome the problem?
Any advice on how and where to find the best plywood?
Not a problem connected to the rest, but you know if there is any alternative to newlydraw, without having to modify all the electronics of the machine?

thank you in advance

hi there
its probably the plywood I had this too sometimes even from the same batch if the manufacturer has to correct some defects they mostly just use more glue or patch it and this is the reason for some lasercutting failure. even the most expensive ply has this. I mostly then use a knife to cut the rest off or thru.
greetings
waltfl

What is the thickness of your plywood. You will not get good results on anything over say 6mm and thats pushing these 50 watt machines. It will cut it but you have to go slow like 10mmps at 100%pwr. R Uusing baltic birch or cheap borg plywood?

Hi friend,

50W laser tube is good at engraving. What is your cutting thickness of plywood? If cut 2-5mm, you can try to cut by 5-8mm/s speed, 80-95% power.

Best Regards

Lucy
Jinan Consure Electronic technology Co.,Ltd
Jinan Consure Electronic Technology Co.,Ltd

hi there
my little 40W machine cuts 6mm birch plywood with 60% power at 9mm/s . I can even cut ordinary 9mm ply from HD with 60% power and 5mm/s. its all about three things,
1. cooling water temperature
2. right focal distance
3. airassist
greetings
waltfl

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bigbird48

What is the thickness of your plywood. You will not get good results on anything over say 6mm and thats pushing these 50 watt machines. It will cut it but you have to go slow like 10mmps at 100%pwr. R Uusing baltic birch or cheap borg plywood?

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3mm poplar plywood. Has for some time I use it, and except for some sporadic case was always cut correctly with these values: 30mm / s 100 PWM power 1KHz (the first time the speed was a little higher)
I worked with the maximum offset 4mm plywood poplar or birch. One I tried thicker (can not remember exactly 5 or 6), but the results of the cut I did not like

Quote:

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Originally Posted by herby08

hi there
my little 40W machine cuts 6mm birch plywood with 60% power at 9mm/s . I can even cut ordinary 9mm ply from HD with 60% power and 5mm/s. its all about three things,
1. cooling water temperature
2. right focal distance
3. airassist
greetings
waltfl

---

Hi,

I tried to halve the speed from 30 to 15 (with low values indicating you and Lucylucky usually worked with plaxyglass) but the results vary little, even the cutting edge becomes black and some blaze also worsens the appearance of surface near the edge.
Wood fibers more or less concentrated along the cut create problems of detachment of the cut part.
The focal usually at the center of the material I tried to move it lower but the results do not change. The focal on the surface worsens the results of more.
The air has the usual flow provided by the compressor (aquarium) supplied with the machine. I tried to approach the jet with a system like the one used by Epilog.
For the temperature, have never had a system of precise control. 10-18 degrees centigrade may be the interval

Hello,

It could be the tube?
How can I check what?
The current to the tube has always the same value.
The SW has the same settings (except accidental changes).
These values could create problems if a program is set incorrect.
Unfortunately, the manual and the news that I do not have my great information

hi
how old is your tube ? I see you are using newlydraw what means you have a original moshiboard what is the worth controller of the world. this could be one reason too. the moshiboard does not support a PWM tube powering what makes all different of the world in both engraving and cutting. most people replace this controller to a professional controller like the AWC 608 this gives you all the professional comfort you ever need and the software for this ( lasercad) gives you the absolute control .
just my experience and from many others
greetings
waltfl

Hi
The tube is 3 at least yars old: I buyed it second-hand, and I'm not sure about that.
I'm not sure about the moshiboard, either. The electronic components have no reference or serial number (all the informations have been sanded off). Moreover, the cutting software (Newlydraw), has a parameter PWM, which I always check. In fact, without this parameter checked, the cutting is noticeably worse. I'll try to explain:
Without PWM checked, at 100% power, the current exceeds 20 mA (suggested value). With the help of a professional amperometer, we obtain the following table:
Power Volt mA
11 4.41 0.21
12 4.35 0.34
15 4.21 0.48
19 3.95
20 3.95 6.70
25 3.67 10.50
30 3.42 12.60
35 3.18 14.30
40 2.92 15.90
45 2.66 17.50
50 2.37 19.16
55 2.16 20.02
60 1.90 21.07

Using PWM parameter (see the screenshot), at 100% power we have a current of 15.7-16.1 mA, and the cutting (30-35 mm/s) is way better.

Attachment 259260

This is how it worked until a few days ago... Now there are the problems I have already explained.
Maybe the tube is exausted, but I'm surprised that this could happen so suddenly.

Safe assumption you already cleaned lens and mirrors? No cracks?

Hi,
I clean all regularly. I have cleaned the optical and mechanical parts before asking you to help. There are no signs or cracks, however I changed the lens not long time ago.

You checked the focus of the new lens?