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I have almost exclusively worked with 6000 series aluminum and now a client wants me to make his parts and
In brass.
I will probably be using mostly free matching brass and architectural brass.
For those of you who machine brass, is there anything I should know? The material is really expensive but it seems like I should be able to machine it like aluminum.
Thanks
Nathan
I have worked a little with free brass. It does machine like aluminum but the finish is much nicer. I used tha same carbide endmills that I use on aluminum. I did run a little slower Sfm.
Brass is much like aluminum, though it depends a lot on the specific alloy - some are quite hard. I'd start at 50% of the 6061 feed, and see how it goes, and speed up from there. If it's truly free-machining, you should be able to get close to the 6061 feeds. Brass generally will not create strings when drilling, which is nice. For free-machining brass, HSS tools will work well.
Regards,
Ray L.
Machine brass dry.
Thanks
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Originally Posted by SCzEngrgGroup
Really? I was going to use flood colonist like I do with aluminum. I saw a job shop machining brass once and they were using coolant.
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Originally Posted by bevinp
Thanks
That is what I was hoping to hear.
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Originally Posted by cbyrd
360 brass is a free machining material.
I do a lot of work with brass, and it cuts just like aluminum.
AND I ALWAYS USE CARBIDE.
Just be sure your brass chips don't get mixed with your aluminum because that will make your aluminum chips worthless.
I use HSS drills, taps and reamers, but end mills are ALWAYS carbide.
Ran naval brass here for a project (lead free) on my 770 a few years back. It cuts pretty well, but was harder than I had anticipated. I had turned a lot of brass on a lathe, but hadn't milled much of it. It is similar to 6061 T6, but a little stouter. Fed at 23.5 IPM and RPM was 6580. I used mist coolant and a 3/8" 3 flute carbide end mill stuck out 1.25" from a set screw holder. According to the program notes I ran DOC 0.125 WOC 0.175. and plunged at 5IPM. Hope that this helps you.
Oh yeah and climb mill for the best finish. It's a very aesthetically pleasing material.
Thanks
Did you use flood?
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Originally Posted by Steve Seebold
Machinery's Handbook says dry, as do many googled hits. It was what I was taught about 40 years ago, but things may have changed. Search on the site of the manufacturer of the cutters you will use and get their advice. .Quote:
Originally Posted by CadRhino
I've machined a few brass parts with my 1100 and machine dry with a small air blast, essentially the Fog Buster with coolant turned off. Seems to work well for me.
Ok thanks
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Originally Posted by MichaelHenry
Thanks for the insight.
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Originally Posted by pickled
Some grades of brass are very "grabby" so you have to be mindful of that. While not as much of an issue on a CNC as on a drill press, it can be especially bad when a drill cuts through the back side. Thin stock could flex enough to be pulled out of a vise.
bob
Straight flute drills are what I use for brass, a twist drill will work well too if the gullet rake is ground straight at the tip, this also works for any thin material or plastics. Positive rake tools do not work well drilling brass.Quote:
Originally Posted by rowbare
Great, thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by popspipes
I have turned brass on the lathe occasionally, but all my lathe tools have a 90 degree top rake and its not a problem.