Thinking of going belt driven
So I'm thinking of going belt driven to get higher RPMs. I'd like to be in the 6-7000 range.
First question:
When going belt driven, do you rip out all of the gear assembly form the spindle. Looking on page 50 of the G0704 manual, the assembly that is all the way to the left top of the page. Is that all taken out?
I know I could just ask Hoss as he has a bunch of info on belt conversion, but I can't expect him to just give away info that he sells. And in the end I think I'd like to come up with belt drive solution, just to be able to say I did :rolleyes:
I don't know, I may just break down and buy Hoss' plans for the belt conversion.
Thanks for any info
Andrew
It's been a little while!
Made a little progress on my build. I had a baby sitter to take my kids for the morning and was able to take apart the machine.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4b0dab56.jpg
Also got some pulleys and a belt from McMaster for the tread mill conversion.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...psd56b3166.jpg
I want to mount the one with the larger opening on the spindle side.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...ps13a677dd.jpghttp://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...ps736134f5.jpg
Thinking of cutting a step into the lower part of the pulley to set it on and then put a few screws from the top to hold it there. Looks like I'd need to use some 6-32's and I'm not sure how well it will hold up.
Has anyone gone this route and willing share their work?
Andrew
PDB Idea! .... 1.1 And spindle\upper Quill heat issues
Ok, so I really didn't pay much attention to the placement of the pancake cylinder in my first design and had to move it forward a bit to clear my motor.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...ps722b3bdd.jpg
I didn't have a chance to make my first design, so nothing lost there.
On another note, Thanks again Hoss for steering me in the right direction on info to reuse the stock Tach. And Michael (mhackney) for posting the info on how to make it happen {post #478 on his G0704 build thread}. But this also lead to a bit of sadness. Turns out my KBBM-125 was set somewhere around 85 VDC, and I was only getting in the ball park of 4500 rpms. when I crank it to about 120 VDC, it gets to about 6500 rpms. Problem is My AC bearings on the spindle don't seem to like that speed and get HOT! The upper quill bearings are getting very Hot as well. They are Deep groove bearings and the bigger one is rated for 7800 rpms iirc. I ended up turning the KBBM-125 down to about 92.0 VDC to get around 5000 rpms.
Not really happy about the heat Issues I'm having. Hopefully someone can suggest somethings to help trouble shot it. It maybe time to get a temp gun and hand held tach?
I'm using a 7007B (9500 rpm limit) and 7005B (13000 rpm limit) for the spindle. The upper quill has a 6209ZZE (7800 rpm limit) and 6007ZZE (12000 rpm Limit). All from VXB.com, using kluber to grease the AC's. The retainers were turned to they stopped and then given a very light nudge tighter. Maybe I need to go to just where it stops?
I'm using the stock tach, currently powered by a 9 volt battery and I'm holding the pick up sensor by hand. I know.... hokey!
Help me Obi' Hoss Kenobi, your My only hope!
Andrew
Update.......Need some help!
Made some progress on the conversion. Got the column and head spacer made, Z ball nut mount and put in the oil grooves in the Z carriage. Also made the stepper risers. Next big step will be getting the oiling system plumbed, once I figure out how I'm going to do it!
So based on where I'm at with the conversion (and had a balance in my paypal account) I ordered the steppers (570 OZ), 3 axis driver\B.O.B (MX3660) 48V PSU, estop and limit\home switches.
I got the motors to move under mach 3 control and then moved on the figuring out the limit switches. I bought the A60 inductive proximity switch from cnc4pc. but I'm not sure how get it working with the mx3660. I can get the switch to power up by putting the black wire into input1 and the blue wire into the GND next to it, brown not hooked up at all. The switch seems to power up fine and the led on it goes off if I put metal in front of it. but I'm either getting a constant signal in mach are not one at all depending on the active low setting. Port (1) and pin (10) looks right in the settings. Anyone have an idea?
This was just my first crack at setting up mach so I may figure it out later when I get a chance to play some more, when the kids head over to grandmas house :cheers:
Andrew