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:confused:I have a SL150Y mfg date 1999. the machine will shut off in mid cut. it will trip 2 breakers 1 is QM70 and QM80 i know that the qm80 runs the oil cooler and fan cooler i have replaced the pump motor with a brand new one. the alarms that come up is a thermal overload trip 2 (ex2551). I have replaced both qm 70 and qm 80 breakers i cannot figure out why once the qm 80 trips the qm70 will trip. I am new to this machine if anyone can help me i would appreciate it very much.
no prints, but one of those seemed like it was for the hydraulic unit. Double check the prints. Its not uncommon to loose the original Nachi piston pump, later machines had the Eco unit and its cheaper to retrofit than a replacement.
interesting you say that. I currently have a hydraulic alarm pop up on my machine when the weather gets really hot. it's an ECO unit. On the unit I'm getting error E80. The manual for the hydraulic unit has some info about getting into the diagnostics but it doesn't work (disabled by Mori I guess). We pulled it apart, cleaned it out and made sure fan and radiator is good but alarm still happens occasionally. Any ideas? I'm thinking maybe some kind of heat-related electronics fault on the internal control board?
For retrofit any suggestions of type/brand/where to buy?
I'm Mike's supervisor here and I would like to give out some more information on what has been going on here. The troubles with this machine started at the end of this summer with what was called at the control a "thermal overload error". We replaced a breaker and it ran good for awhile. Then one day it started smoking out of the left side of the machine. Turned out the hydro pump motor seized and melted the coils of the motor to the housing. So we replaced the motor and two breakers. The QM80 and the QM70. then machine ran good for a long while. The other day operator was in a cut and the control went blank. Now when I say that I mean that there was nothing on the screen and no lights on the panel's buttons. But... The machine was still cutting and making a good part?????? So we then shut it down,(after the part was finished), and brought it back up. Now we are where we are. Mike has looked at the schematics and found that the 80 breaker goes to the oil and the hydro coolers and the 70 breaker goes to the E-stops. The machine will power up and stay up for about 3 minutes and then throw the 80 breaker then the 70 breaker. And after we turn off the main breaker we cannot reset the 80 and 70 breakers for about 5 minutes. I just wanted to get out there as much information that I can so that I can get some help with this. And as always let me give out a THANK YOU to all that responds to my issue.
If you are repeatedly tripping breakers, you really need to monitor the current of the supply the breakers are protecting, this can be done with a simple clamp-on ammeter that can attach to an ordinary DMM.
If they will not reset even before the contactor is energized, it implies thermal overloads, rather than electronic type.
If the current is normal, then you may want to consider modern contactors and O/L's if these are of the older type.
Al.
[QUOTE=metlshpr;Then one day it started smoking out of the left side of the machine. Turned out the hydro pump motor seized and melted the coils of the motor to the housing. [/QUOTE]
The only reason I can see this thing melting down, the thermal was set too high, and the pump head is locking up. Typical failure of the nachi pumps. Don't know why it would pull the QM70 down, unless somewhere its shorting 24VDC.
Dakin Eco Rich are available from all world at about the lowest cost i've seen. Comes with pump and tank. ~2800. Last price for replacement pump and motor for the Nachi was ~4300.
Oil Hydraulics DivisionbAreas of Business | Daikin Industries, Ltd.
Fordav, i've seen that alarm on occasion but only in our hottest climate in the hottest days, other than complete failures. I believe it to be a bad board, or overheated board. I have a manual somewhere, you should be able to get to diagnostics, however some early units had a different procedure to get to them.
the manual I have came from the daiken web site. The Mori unit has 1 or 2 slightly different numbers in the part number but is 99% the same. The diagnostics in this manual don't work. if you have the correct manual for the ECO unit that came with Mori's around ~1999/2000 and could supply the access info that'd be great :-)
I've had my screen go blank many times and the machine keeps on going. But in my case it was GOPIII that crashed. The Mori front-end is OS/2-based so not very stable :-/
Just wanted to let you all know that we think we found the issue. It seems that the main breaker is bad. The machine will trip and we can push the switch in the on direction and it will run for as long as we want it to. Now the bad news. There is no such breaker in the USA. Looks like we will have to find one from Japan. Apparently it has some sort of 24V attachment to it that makes it a "special" breaker. Again thanks to all for the help.
Sounds like a remote activated breaker, these type usually come in 3 flavours, straight breaker, breaker with advisory contacts and ones with remote-coil activated, it sounds like you have the latter?
You should be able to find a substitute as although not all that common, should be available in other makes or sources?
These are often used to automatically trip the breaker if an enclosure is opened etc, as in safety measures.
Al.
Al is right, that is a shunt trip breaker. It trips in 2 ways, either cabinet door opened with the interlocks enabled, or low voltage supply (brown/black out).
ALL World can usually get the replacements, however FUJI has discontinued some of the older ones, and the replacements are a little tough to get mounted and working.
Shortly after the controller is switched ‘ON’, machine door need to be open and then close afterward (I think this is the procedure of controller being initialized). I’ve practiced this procedure each of every time I start my machine before. But recently, it does not work with the error massage of “EX0069 DOOR LOCK TIME OVER (ref. r1614.0)” appearing on the screen, even the above standard starting procedure being followed. What is the cause of this problem?. Glad to hear the solution.
My machine is SL150.Shortly after the controller is switched ‘ON’, machine door need to be open and then close afterward (I think this is the procedure of controller being initialized). I’ve practiced this procedure each of every time I start my machine before. But recently, it does not work with the error massage of “EX0069 DOOR LOCK TIME OVER (ref. r1614.0)” appearing on the screen, even the above standard starting procedure being followed. What is the cause of this problem?. Glad to hear the solution.
Did you find a solution for this? I have the same issue on a NV5000. The manual doesn't say much. Already replaced the interlock switch. (see attached).Quote:
Originally Posted by Maizan