wanting to build a WVO centrifuge but....

ok tittle says it all I have a new project , I want to build a waste oil centrifuge but I can't get it in my head how to make the inner rotor connection to the shaft (direct drive or pulley) that goes through the outer house/pan to the motor. I can't go bigger then 10" diameter for my inner rotor pan either cause that is as big as my old atlas lathe will turn.

Here is a very poor and basic drawing ( I ain't no artist!) I have the basic idea of how to build this unit but there has to be some way that I am missing to get a bearing/race and some type of support other then just the motors drive shaft. This unit will spin between 3400 and 7000 rpm so you can understand why I want more support but it is just eluding me at the moment , which normally means its simple and I am just overlooking it.....lol

I can comprehend something like say cutting a old crank shaft and mounting to the bottom pan and use a bearing and race for support but then I can't drive the enter pan or I can see a elec motor shaft with a key coming right though and supporting the enter pan but when it spins up to all those G's with oil in it I am afraid the elec motor shaft alone will not be strong enough to support it ....... hoping someone can kick start my brain with some suggestions


http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...gedrawing1.jpg

You might consider a vertical hollow shaft motor. The shaft can go thru the motor. The shaft can be supported on its own bearings, not relying on the motor bearings to support the shaft.

7-10,000 rpm????? $$$$$$$$$$$

Dick Z

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Originally Posted by Goldhunter_2

This unit will spin between 3400 and 7000 rpm

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10K WOW, no I am thinking 5 to 6K will be the sweet spot for what I want to do

Quote:

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The shaft can go thru the motor. The shaft can be supported on its own bearings, not relying on the motor bearings to support the shaft.

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so basically your saying a fixed pipe mounted to the base pan with bearing/race combo around it to support the upper/inner pan and the elec motor shaft comes up through the middle of that with short key way at the top ....... that mite work if my motor shaft is long enough I will have to check it tomorrow

something like this?

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...gedrawing2.jpg

Refer to post#2, hollow shaft motor. Sorry 'bout the 7-10,000 rpm, must be mental thing LOL.

Dick Z

ok sorry, I now relieze you where talking about buying a new motor rather then use what I have and build around it. I'm not sure that is as cost effect or as motivational effective of a option for me.

Could you use the bearing/hub assembly from a small front wheel drive car?
Here is one from a '95 Chevy Cavalier; Chevrolet Cavalier Wheel Hub - Wheel Bearing Hubs - Timken Replacement National - 2004 1997 1995 1998 2002 2003 2001 04 97 95 98 02 03 01 - PartsGeek.com

The Triangle shaped part would bolt to the bottom of the outer pan. The wheel hub would bolt to the inner pan. A shaft would be made to fit the hole where the axle goes, or an old axle from the junk yard could be turned down to fit a pulley or your motor.

Getting one from a wrecking yard wouldn't cost much and the units are more than strong enough. They support the weight of a car!

Another idea would be to find an old washing machine and take the drum hub assembly out of it.

at first glance that set up mite work but then thinking about it I would be afraid the hub would make the oil pan set to high decreasing the stability :(

now the washing machine ideas sounds good I'll have to find one of those to look at :)

Have you looked around to see what other people are using to spin their oil?

I used to use a Diesel Craft before the simple centrifuge was available as a turnkey system. That thing was awesome, but the need to prefilter the big chunks out first was a PITA! I really needed something that I could just dump the buckets into.

Just my $0.02 you may be better off with several stages of spinners, start with a giant slow speed monster at room temp to remove the big stuff, and work your way down to smaller and faster machines.

That way you have a chance to gradually heat you oil, and if your inclined to include heat recovery.

yes I looked around and know diesel craft unit is out there but would prefer a powered unit lit simplefuge one honestly if I had the extra cash I would just buy one of theirs.

My cleaning tank's will be plastic so I will only be heating them to about 80-90 degrees so as not to overheat and melt them. ya I think how nasty your oil supply is to start with will have some effect on the level of aggravation in the cleaning but I had though of a deep screen basket between 10-20 micro mounted in the top of a 750 gallon collection tank that way I can basically pre-screen the larger chuck out right off form the begin then the centrifuge should hand it no problem and will reduce by some degree how quickly it needs to be cleaned out.

Well a little update , I went up to the scrap yard and I didn't find exactly what I was looking for but after some searching I found some stuff I think I can make work mite not be as pretty as if I could have turned every thing but as long as it works I'll be happy


For the shaft bearing problem I some type of alum hub with steel shaft and bearing has threads on one end and flush on the other , a larger aluminum pot about 14"x16" , a aluminum lid I can make work, then found a old industrial aluminum disc with a aluminum collar in the center that fits the hub I'll have to remove the steel tension band and machine the top of the collar down then machine the base for a trash clean out .I could not find any 10" or 12" solid or pipe so I'll use some 8" aluminum pipe I had at the house


Anyway I Just wanted to update ya'll and good or bad when I make a little more process on this I will let you know how it turned out


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Hi there,

Thanks a lot for your opinions. I think basically, the centrifugal forces in an automotive wheel bearing are relatively insignificant. Where centrifugal forces really come into play are in industrial couplings connecting high speed electric motors with their respective applications. In that situation, you use a coupling grease in which the base oil and thickener densities have been balanced, typically with a polymer.
Thanks,
Xing