I think I've found the ultimate hold-down solution!
I'm running a 36 x 36 CNCN router, mostly making inlays for custom woodwork. I've struggled with hold-down issues since the beginning. I cut 1/8" wood for the inlays and have been breaking about 70% of the inlys when trying to remove them from the spoil board. Vacuum hold-downs don't work because I have to cut all the way through the inlay stock. After many, many iterations, I've stumbled onto the best solution. I use a well-polished phenolic spoil board and use 3M9576 double-sided tape to hold 3/32 balsa to it. Then I use the tape again to stick the inlay material to the balsa. The balsa is easy to cut through, either with a VERY sharp putty knife or a fine-bladed bandsaw. The tiny inlays come off without a problem. The 9576 tape is teh best approach I have found for this method. The adhesive rolls off easily, leaves NO residue and holds very well. The bals is much more stable than nay type of styrofoam board I've thried and relatively inexpensive. I put the balsa down in 1/2" wide strips with the grain going across the tape. Most of the tape and its adhesive comes up easily and the rest rolls right off under thumb pressure. My biggest problem is getting a blister rubbing the adhesive off!
The balsa is the sacrificial part...
I'm cutting hardwoods 1/8" thick into inlays of names, dates, etc. The balsa gives me somewhere to start the "unsticking' of the inlay from the hold-down (I shouldn't have used the term "spoil board") board. If I stick the inlay material down to the hold-down board, I can't get the inlay off without cracking it. The balsa gives me something relatively soft to cut through to get the inlay off the hold-down board without cracking it. Then I peel the tape and balsa left-overs off the back of the inlay. Using the 9576 tape, the adhesive holds like mad but rolls off without too much trouble. I cut the balsa into 1/2" wide strips so it's easier to get through with the sharpened putty knife. The balsa provides a "gap" between the inlay and the hold-down board and is easily cut through. It's also WWWAAAYYY firmer than foam board and doesn't allow the inlay material to budge while it's being cut. I cut all the way through the inlay material and the first layer of tape, into the balsa, without going into the second layer of tape or the spoil (hold-down) board.