[whagkangmakulet]

I've been using my haimer 3d on my Tormach for about a year now and I just realize that the needle doesn't start on "0" everytime I use it. Never drop it, but recently broke a probe. Should it start at zero? How do I adjust it? Thanks!

Attachment 264790

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[Hirudin]

Mine doesn't start on "0" either. It probably doesn't matter though because the important thing is that it ends on "0". If you haven't already, try measuring an edge with the face of the dial pointing toward the front of the machine, then move it away from the edge, rotate the Haimer so it's face points to the right, and find the same edge again. It should give you the same reading. Turn it 90° two more times and make sure it's giving you the same measurement from all four directions.

When you change probe tips you should adjust the Haimer to make sure its tip is concentric with your spindle. The way you adjust it is by putting a dial test indicator against the Haimer probe and adjust the four allen set screws near the top of the Haimer until the DTI doesn't move when you rotate the Haimer in the spindle.

If you figure out that the "0" point is off, you can rotate the dial by just grabbing the bezel and turning it.

[WOTDesigns]

+1 Hirudin. Good reply.

Mine isn't at zero either. Like he said the face is attached to the bezel so rotating the bezel adjusts the face. Mine is exactly the same amount off yours is. If I correct it then the haimer over travels. Another easy way to test is to jog into a surface and zero the axis as soon as it touches. Then continue jogging 0.079" if u have the 4mm ball, and see if it is on zero. It should travel exactly 50% of the ball diameter.

Brian
WOT Designs

[johnsattuk]

The Zero can be adjusted via 4 small grub screws around the outside of the dial, not the eccentricity adjustment on the mount. Haimer provide two hex keys, the larger for the mount, the smaller for Zeroing the dial.

If it does not start at Zero, it is not going to be at the centre of the 4mm ball when you reach zero after two needle turns. The adjustment is quite sensitive

[WOTDesigns]

If it does not start at Zero, it is not going to be at the centre of the 4mm ball when you reach zero after two needle turns.

Maybe before you break your first tip... Mine would be wrong if I start at zero... Then again... I may have broken a few tips in the last 5 years...

Brian
WOT Designs

[WOTDesigns]

Who do u think got little machine shop to start stocking them so I didn't have to wait 4 days for them to get here from Tormach

Brian
WOT Designs

[whagkangmakulet]

Thanks for the clarification! I'm glad that I'm not the only one... I'll adjust and test my Haimer per recommendation on Monday.

[Hirudin]

I always wondered what those four screws did. I'm having trouble figuring out how turning the dial wouldn't work, but I do think those grub screws seem like a better way to go.

[Steve Seebold]

I've been using my haimer 3d on my Tormach for about a year now and I just realize that the needle doesn't start on "0" everytime I use it. Never drop it, but recently broke a probe. Should it start at zero? How do I adjust it? Thanks!

Attachment 264790

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

The bezel will rotate. It's a little on the tight side, but it will turn. When you replace the tip, you also need to indicate it back to center because replacement tips din't run exactly true.

[R.DesJardin]

There are instructions that come with the Haimer. It tells how to setup and adjust it.

[Beezle]

I thought that didn't matter so long as the tip is concentric. Though now that I think about it...

For Z, it seems a relative thing. Consistently returning to the same point with the dial at "center."

Finding the center of two edge readings seems the same.

But finding a single edge? I'll see if the needle moves when I rotate the spindle. Er, but that's covered by being concentric.

Now I am confused. Off to read the instructions.

And what about the digital Haimer? Mine always starts at zero.

[Beezle]

So mine didn't point at zero at rest either.

The instructions state to turn the dial if necessary but if where zero is changes, send it in. Nothing about adjusting the four screws around the edge of the dial.

I tested mine and according to the Tormach's DRO it measures 2mm within .0005 or so and mine is concentric within about .0002 or so.

Good enough for me.

[Hirudin]

The Zero can be adjusted via 4 small grub screws around the outside of the dial, not the eccentricity adjustment on the mount. Haimer provide two hex keys, the larger for the mount, the smaller for Zeroing the dial.

If it does not start at Zero, it is not going to be at the centre of the 4mm ball when you reach zero after two needle turns. The adjustment is quite sensitive

Thinking about this a little more I am more convinced that you're right and that I was wrong. I now think it should probably point to "0" at both points (the start and the end).

I took my Taster apart yesterday to try to get some coolant out of it. I'm going to try to put it back together and recalibrate it...

[Beezle]

Thinking about this a little more I am more convinced that you're right and that I was wrong. I now think it should probably point to "0" at both points (the start and the end).

I took my Taster apart yesterday to try to get some coolant out of it. I'm going to try to put it back together and recalibrate it...

The instructions that come with the Haimer suggest turning the dial, not adjusting those screws.

Ie, the screws are another adjustment not mentioned in the Haimer manual. I supposed it could have been that way, but it is not now.

[pickled]

Maybe before you break your first tip... Mine would be wrong if I start at zero... Then again... I may have broken a few tips in the last 5 years...

Brian
WOT Designs

NICE pile!! I'm seeing a case of top shelf bourbon in that picture (dollar equivalent and lost pain reduction medicine). Between this post and the insert mill trying to morph into a plasma cutter you have truly inspired me

[kstrauss]

I took my Taster apart yesterday to try to get some coolant out of it. I'm going to try to put it back together and recalibrate it...

Could you possibly post some pictures of the inside?

[Hirudin]

If I can resist the urge to smash it with a hammer I probably will.


... later...
The hammer won over the Haimer. Sorry.

GDPOS gets two drops of coolant in it (IP67 my ass) and everything gets gummed up. I'm done with that thing.

The inner workings are basically a glorified dial indicator.

[Steve Seebold]

NICE pile!! I'm seeing a case of top shelf bourbon in that picture (dollar equivalent and lost pain reduction medicine). Between this post and the insert mill trying to morph into a plasma cutter you have truly inspired me

The absolute best way to insure that you WILL break a tip on your Haimer is to not have a spare on hand. I broke a tip on mine about 8 years ago with no spares on hand so I bought 6 more. One to replace the one I broke and 5 more as spares. I haven't broken one since then.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

If I can resist the urge to smash it with a hammer I probably will.


... later...
The hammer won over the Haimer. Sorry.

GDPOS gets two drops of coolant in it (IP67 my ass) and everything gets gummed up. I'm done with that thing.

The inner workings are basically a glorified dial indicator.

Are you really throwing in the towel because of that?

Regards,
Ray L.

[keen]

Maybe before you break your first tip... Mine would be wrong if I start at zero... Then again... I may have broken a few tips in the last 5 years...

Brian
WOT Designs

Hi Brian. I gather the Probes are not cheap...are you sure the Haimer is as cost effective as a Starrett edge finder etc? I have been thinking of getting a Haimer - because it takes me about 5 minutes to set up XYZ accurately with my Starretf mechanical edge finder - but if I need to keep replacing the probes I am not so sure. I suppose if the Haimer is really a lot quicker it may be worth it, but I have used the mechanical edge finder hundreds of times and it is accurate, and nothing breaks. I admit It is slow and takes quite a lot of concentration though.

Keen